May Hill is known not merely for its orchards. At its foot a group of Huguenot glassmakers established a glasshouse in 1590. Two of their number (Paul Tysack and Abraham Liscourt) experimented with the coal-fired furnace to produce their glass. This development not only resulted in a stronger glass, but when subsequently applied to the smelting of iron proved a critical part of the whole industrial revolution! The glass proved suitable for the production of bottles, an industry developed at Newnham-on-Severn in the Forest of Dean. The Civil War temporarily brought an end to production, but following the cessation of hostilities, factories were set up at both Newnham and Gloucester. Bottled cider and perry (much by then produced in Herefordshire) were shipped to London in large quantities. At the same time the perry and cider producers came to understand and control the mysteries of secondary fermentation in the bottle. This produces the familiar sparkle and eruption of bubbles when the cork is drawn – a process recorded by Dr. Christopher Merrett of Winchcombe Gloucestershire in 1662, but subsequently exploited and jealously protected by French wine producers, under the name of champagne.....
Frederick William Harvey: Hartpury's Poet
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After Long Wandering:
I will go back to Gloucestershire, To the spot where I was born To talk at eve with men and women And song on the roads at morn. And I'll sing as I tramp by dusty hedges Or drink my ale in the shade How Gloucestershire is the finest home That the Lord God ever made. |
I'll drink my perry and sing my song
Of home and home again, Pierced with the old miraculous pleasure Keen as sharpest pain; And if I rise to sing on the morrow Or if I die in my bed, 'Tis all the same: I'll be home again, And happy alive or dead. |
| The family moved to Redlands, Minsterworth within a few years of his birth. Harvey fought in the trenches of Flanders in the First World War and became a P.O.W. in 1916, when he wrote perhaps his best-known poem, Ducks, but his love of Gloucestershire and appreciation of the countryside and its products was always uppermost in his poetry | |
Song of Minsterworth Perry
Now every year they bloom again, |
And after Summer's shine and rain
We gather up the blessed fruit; Whereof we get a heavenly drink |
John Helps
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John Helps a wer an honest mon;
The dumplings that a chewed Wer made vrom honest apples As Autumn ever growed John Helps a wer an honest mon; |
A River, A Pig, And Brains
A rakish, active beast 'a was |
He bought un, but no net 'ad got
To kip thic pig inside the boat. "The'll drown we' pig and all at ferry" Cried one. Said Fry, "Go, bring some perry, And this old drinking-horn you got, Lying inside the piggery cot!" He poured a goodish swig and soon |
| Harvey died in 1957 aged 69 at his home in
Yorkley in the Forest of Dean - 'I have burnt myself out for the glory
of Gloucestershire'. The trustees would like to thank Patrick Harvey for permission to quote from his father's work. |
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| Although the market was always limited, there was no shortage of varieties of trees in the area around May Hill. Cottagers from the 16th century often formed orchards by encroaching strips on the sides of the wide unfenced tracks. In 1700 Brome described West Gloucestershire 'The very lanes and hedges being well lined with apple and pear trees and the vales, which in William of Malmesbury's time were filled with vineyards, are now turned into orchards'. Traditionally perry orchards were established by planting pear seedlings and if the resulting tree produced better fruit then it was retained, otherwise it would be used as the stock on which to graft from an existing source. Thus new trees were often limited to a single parish, or even farm. As has been seen, Perry pear names are confused but have a special charm. Merrylegs; Mumblehead; Lumberskull; Drunkers; Devil Drink; Lumber; Nailer; Huffcap and Startlecock are examples. | |
| In a paper read to the Woolhope Field Club in 1876, Rev C.H.Bulmer (father of H.P. Bulmer, founder of the well known firm of cider producers) spoke appreciatively of the Teignton Squash, which had existed since the 16th century, the Longland, and the Barland of Bosbury, but he considered the Oldfield to be the best pear to be had having tasted some 40 year old perry, produced from 300 year old trees in his own glebe orchard. His paper was delivered as a result of concern expressed about the fate of the old cider and perry trees by the Woolhope Club, which in 1875 had extended its objects to 'ascertain the correct names of the different kinds of cider, perry, cooking and desert apples and pears of Herefordshire and neighbouring districts'. A similar concern in 1991 resulted in a group led by Charles Martell of Dymock, tracing and collecting most of the known trees (70 of the 100 or so recorded), which are now planted at the Three Counties showground and have been designated the NCCPG National Collection. They were gathered only just in time. One of the then few surviving Hartpury Green trees died shortly after it was located and inspected! A similar collection of known varieties is being established in Hartpury. A listing of the trees in the National Collections can be viewed at the Gloucester Orchard Group Site HERE. | ![]() |
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The Orchard Centre at Taste and Explore.com |
Taste & Explore has a new base in the pleasant rural setting of Hartpury, Gloucestershire - The Orchard Centre, which opened in early Autumn 2008.
The attractive oak framed Orchard Centre at Hartpury will act as a visitor information point, as well as a unique specialist centre for training in the production of cider, perry, juice and orchard fruit-based products. It will also become a venue for other events and activities, including country markets, tutored tastings, activity weekends, and the traditional fun of “Wassails”.

By 1388 the first culinary pear variety, the Warden, had been introduced by Cistercian Monks at Wardon in Bedfordshire. The Black Worcester is a variety of warden pear. Culinary pears were an important source of vitamin C in medieval England. They were one of the few foods that could be stored through the winter before the introduction of the turnip and other root crops. One of the attributes claimed for the turnip when it was eventually introduced in the 16th century, was as a replacement for apples to make cider! A drink sometimes referred to as perry had been made from the early medieval period by steeping slices of the fruit in water (depensé) to produce a liquor that was then allowed to ferment. It was drunk as a penance by the early religious! Worcester monks spoke of using both wyld peres and grete tame peres (the Black Worcester) for perry. The use of Warden pears for perry was also recorded in the London area, a trade that John Norden (1607) found to be declining due to growth in the fresh fruit market. Harris, fruiterer to Henry VIII, introduced many dessert pears from France and the Low Countries in 1533 for planting at Teynham in Kent. Gerard (1597) recorded that the number of pear varieties had increased since the beginning of that century and claimed that one friend of his had 60 high quality varieties in his orchard and perhaps as many again of lesser quality ones. The introduction of the numerous continental dessert pears meant large quantities would have been turned into perry, if a local market was not found for the fresh fruit. Rev. John Beale (sometimes referred to as the father of the Hereford orchard) was a cider man, regarding perry as a women’s drink ‘fit more for the hinds’. Possibly this was because the perry he knew was generally made from surplus dessert pears. Writing in 1656 he does though speak of the neighbourhood of Bosbury being famous for a peculiar perry which he considered had many of the masculine qualities of cider, being quick, strong and retaining good vigour for many years. He describes the fruit, which he called the Bareland, as so hard and coarse that even a pig will not eat it. This pear is still known today as the vintage perry variety Barland. The perry pear may be considered a halfway point between the wild pear and the sweet dessert pear. Its complex pedigree is the key to the unique drink now made in the counties surrounding May Hill. Gerard refers to wild or hedge pears as being harsh and bitter, but used for making perry, and by 1662 distinct varieties of these pears were recorded by Daniel Colwall writing about the part of north-west Gloucestershire around May Hill ‘...... it is pears it most abounds in, of which the best sort is that they name the Squash pear, which makes the best Perry of those parts’. He continued ‘The pears for perry are the Red Squash pear esteemed the best, the John pear, the Harpary (Hartpury) Green pear, the Drake pear, the Green Squash pear, the Mary pear, the Lullam pear. |
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From these early origins in the villages around Newent and Ledbury, many local varieties were produced. Trees grown from seed were generally used. This local practice continued through the centuries. John Norse Morse of Newent produced copper tokens (to pay his workforce) that bore the legend ‘several thousand young healthy and fine crab apple and pear stocks raised from the kernel to be sold by J. Morse Newent Gloucestershire 1796’.
Once the trees came into production the fruit was assessed and either kept or if unsatisfactory, the trees were top grafted with a proven perry variety. This resulted in the development of many local varieties which were often restricted to individual parishes or even farms. Perry pears were also often planted on waste or other land not suited to cultivation, by cottagers and smallholders. While the cider apple is widely grown throughout the West Country, the true perry pear is still found largely in Gloucestershire and Herefordshire and to a lesser extent Monmouthshire, Worcestershire and a few other neighbouring counties. |
The myth…… looking back through the mists of time to the dawn of the World – to a day when the immortals were feasting on May Hill (a landmark, surmounted by a group of trees, near Newent on the border of Gloucestershire and Herefordshire). A young godling rushed up carrying a pear which he described as the elixir of life, providing a nectar fit only for Gods. He handed it to the chief, who took a large bite…. Have you ever tasted a perry pear? It is so dry and astringent as to be virtually inedible. This he discovered - spitting the pear all around the hill. The godling explained that the pear must be crushed and the juice turned into perry, but the damage had been done, those pips took root and flourished - the perry pear had entered the mortal World. It is for this reason that even today it is said that a perry pear tree will best flourish if it is growing within sight of May Hill. High up in the roof of the church in the village named after the perry pear - Hardepirige or Hartpury, there is an ancient carving of a figure seated on a throne with a pained expression clutching his tummy - surely that same immortal – still suffering from that ill advised bite into the perry pear! |
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and reality…… The true native wild pear growing in British woodland and hedgerows is pyrus pyraster. It is now one of our rarest trees. The cultivated pear Pyrus communis originated in central Asia evolving through a process of natural selection through many millennia. It was introduced here by the Romans. Following their withdrawal the orchards would have been abandoned, but self sown pyrus communis would have crossed with the indigenous pyrus pyraster. These crosses- often referred to as wildings, are thought to be the ancestors of the native perry pear and can be differentiated from both the culinary and the dessert pear. Perry and Hartpury |
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| Perry is one of the traditional fermented drinks in Britain and was of considerable importance to Hartpury. Writing in the last quarter of 18th century, William Marshall recorded considerable cider and perry making in the 'Over Severn' parts of Gloucestershire and Herefordshire around May Hill - the Hartpury neighbourhood and Rev. Thomas Rudge, reporting to the Board of Agriculture at the end of that century, found that large quantities of cider and perry were made in Hartpury. A national collection of Perry Pears registered with NCCPG has been planted in Hartpury and an Orchard Centre built there offering training in the production of perry and cider. |
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| Writing in the last quarter of 18th century, William Marshall refers to three regions of Britain that produced cider, but comments that west Gloucestershire and Herefordshire were regarded as the first. Perry pears are almost totally confined to Gloucestershire and the adjacent parts of Herefordshire and Worcestershire. Rev. Thomas Rudge, reporting to the Board of Agriculture at the end of that century, found that large quantities of cider and perry were made in Hartpury and Marshall also particularly noted the major importance of cider and perry making in the 'Over Severn' parts of Gloucestershire and Herefordshire around May Hill - the Hartpury neighbourhood | ![]() |